Perilla Seeds: Egoma, Shiso and the Korean Kitchen's Nutty Secret

Perilla belongs to the mint family. Its leaves are known as shiso in Japan and kkaennip in Korea, and its seeds are used as a cooking ingredient in both countries and beyond. In Japan the seeds are called egoma, while in Korea they are deulkkae. The seeds are small, round and brown or grey, with a nutty, slightly minty aroma that deepens when toasted.

Flavour

Raw perilla seeds smell herbal and green. Toasted, they become nutty and rich, a little like sesame but with a faint anise and mint note. Ground, they thicken soups and sauces and give them a creamy, earthy body.

Korean uses

In Korea, ground perilla seed is a key ingredient in soups and stews, such as deulkkae soup and chicken and mushroom dishes. Toasted seeds are also sprinkled on namul vegetable side dishes. Perilla seed powder is used to thicken broths in a way that is similar to ground nuts in Western sauces. Perilla oil, called deulgireum, is used as a finishing oil for noodles, rice and vegetables.

Japanese uses

In Japan, egoma seeds are used in some regions in sweet-savoury pastes, rice cakes and sauces, sometimes blended with miso. Egoma oil was traditionally pressed too. The leaves, shiso, are a separate ingredient and are used more widely than the seeds.

How to use at home

Buy toasted whole seeds or powder from an Asian grocer. To toast raw seeds, put them in a dry pan over medium heat, stir often and take them off as soon as they smell nutty and begin to pop. Grind in a mortar or spice grinder. Stir a spoonful of powder into miso soup, a mushroom stew or a bowl of noodles, or use the seeds as a topping for rice, salad and roasted vegetables. They also work in dressings with soy sauce, rice vinegar and a little honey.

Perilla oil

Perilla oil is notable for its high content of the plant omega-3 fat alpha-linolenic acid. This makes it delicate. Use it cold or at the end of cooking, and keep the bottle in the fridge once open. Cold-pressed perilla oil can be strongly flavoured, so a few drops are enough. Fresh seeds and oils that smell stale or oily like old paint are past their best.

Perilla seeds are rich in fats, including omega-3 ALA, and provide fibre, protein and some minerals. A tablespoon or two is a normal serving, and they work as a flavour ingredient and a topping.

Storage and cautions

Because of the high oil content, keep seeds, powder and oil airtight and cool, and the fridge is best for long storage. Perilla is a mint-family plant and a few people are allergic to it, so try a little first. In Korea and Japan, perilla is eaten commonly, but anyone with seed allergies should be careful. The seeds are not a replacement for sesame, though they play a similar role in the kitchen, and they are sometimes overlooked as a gentle, tasty alternative to sesame for variety.

This article is general information, not medical advice.